Fixing a Pioneer Elite Pro 200 RPTV

[rabbit]

Normally, I'd put this thread in the Hardware board.  But since we don't have a Hardware board, I'd normally put it in my board, but since only x86 members can see my board, and I'd really like any help anyone can offer, I put it here.

So we picked this thing up for free from some guy (go craigslist!)
It's a 52" rear projection TV with a list price of $5800.  "How did you get it so cheap?" you may be pondering.  The simple answer is: it's broken!  But, the even better response to that is: it's fixable!

Anyway, the fix is basically to open it up, resolder some bad contacts, and all should be well.  Right?  Wrong!  It's a simple concept, but getting the board out of the tray was a complete BITCH of a thing to do.  Now I have to pore over the board (assuming it's even the right one, as there are many) looking for bad solder points.  What makes this tricky is that I really, really, REALLY don't want to dewire the thing, since it's never a good idea to do that.  ANYWAY!  Here's what the underside looks like:





As you can plainly see, it's HUGE.  I need a magnifying glass (somewhere in my apartment) to get started.  But I've asked a pro guy to give me a hint as to what part of the board the problem is probably at (he's told me previously it's either the deflection board [wtf is that?] or the power supply board).  Since I don't know what a deflection board is, I'm kinda stuck.  More updates as I progress.

[Chavo]

Do you have a heat gun? You don't need to resolder components if you just have broken traces.  I have no idea what a "deflection" board is, but the most common components to fail in power supplies are the capacitors (usually obvious by visual inspection, but you can use a high quality multimeter to check capacitance too).

[rabbit]

I have a 15W iron, but no heat gun.  I have found a few contacts where there was just not enough solder in the first place.  I did look over the top of the board thoroughly many times (because I couldn't figure out how to get it out).

[warz]

As you can plainly see, it's HUGE.

That's what she said.

[Camel]

I have a 15W iron, but no heat gun.

Give up.

[Chavo]

lol@ 15W, even if you did manage to get the solder hot enough to reflow with that you'd have damaged any connected components already

you could try the oven trick if you have nothing to lose

[rabbit]

lol@ 15W, even if you did manage to get the solder hot enough to reflow with that you'd have damaged any connected components already

you could try the oven trick if you have nothing to lose

I actually got 4 points resoldered no problem, so fuck your couch ^^

[Chavo]

Adding extra solder to create a new path != reflowing and not nearly as good of a solution.

[Camel]

You're going to do more damage than good with a 15W iron. Irrelevant is the fact that you can't control the temperature, because there's so little power behind the iron that you can't heat the solder fast enough to keep the rest of the shit from breaking.

At work we don't use anything under 50W, and most of the irons have a digital temperature display/control, like this one. That thing will let you power through your little problem.

[Nate]

Funny thing about electronics, "broken" doesn't really describe the problem, if it doesn't turn on, its probably the power supply, if it turns on and you get weird horizontal line(s) its probably the deflection board.

[rabbit]

It turns on, stays on for a while, goes ZAP and a green line sweeps down the screen, and then it enters standby.

[Chavo]

"goes ZAP" ?

Are you hearing snapping or popping sound?  If so, I'd bet money you have bad capacitors, though I can't imagine why you'd be experiencing it over and over instead of just once.

[Nate]

It stays on and displays a picture?

[rabbit]

Nope!  It goes ZAP, the green line goes across, and then it's black (because it goes into standby!)

[Nate]

But do things like the menu for the TV display properly?  And have you tried at least  2 of the input connections?